Windmill Restoration
from the Nov 04 issue
by Chuck Rickgauer

Have you been looking for an old windmill? Perhaps you have one in the family that is in need of restoration? If you have been looking for a windmill to restore, I have some ideas on how you can do just that.

When you first find that old windmill you hope it is on the ground. That way you don't have to pay someone to take it down, which means it is safer. You can inspect it closer to see how much work there will be. They are also worth more when already on the ground.

For most of us restoring an old windmill typically means looking at a 6' to 10' diameter wheel. Larger ones can make nice restorations, but parts may be scarce, they are much harder to move around and can be difficult to erect. Get professional help if you're working on a big windmill.

Here are 10 easy steps to windmill restoration. As we all know, the devil is in the details. This applies more to oil bath mills but in general applies to open gear windmills also.

1. Determine the size, make and model of the windmill you're going to restore. You can do this by looking at the name on the tail, any information on the main casting, and part numbers cast into the various mill parts. If you need help go to www.vintagewindmills.com and put what information you have on the discussion page and/or look in the resources under manufacturers. Someone will know exactly what your windmill is.
2. Once your mill is on the ground it will typically need to be completely disassembled to ensure the internals all perform correctly and are in good repair. Taking pictures of how things connect before you take the windmill apart is a very good practice, especially the tail and brake mechanisms and how the
   wheel connects to the wheel arms. Those are done in many different ways.
3. The most critical parts are the main shafts and the bearings they ride on. You may find roller bearings that are still made, Babbitt bearings (that if worn will have to be repoured), or wood bearings that you can have made at the local machine shop. Main shafts can also be easily made at the same machine shop. Parts, such as cast gears and main castings for the external parts, are difficult to find and you may actually have to have them repoured. That is, if you can't find any in the Windmill 'bone piles' many of us have.
4. If you have all the pieces and parts but some are broken you can make a lot of repairs to cast iron parts by welding with nickel rod. Use a professional, as it can be tricky welding cast iron.
5. The next most critical part is getting the main casting cleaned up, as that is where all the trash will reside after many years of operation or years of lying on the ground. Clean it as best you can in the shop, and then take it to the local car wash to clean out all the oil passages. Check them to ensure oil can flow as the mill was designed.
6. For reassembly, simply put back the parts in the reverse of disassembly. Reassemble the internal parts first, and then the external parts. Make sure everything is very clean and generally rust free. Use oil or another lubricant to make everything slide together easily. If you have to gently force something use brass hammers or rods. If the mill wants to go back together, it will do so rather easily. This is the time for patience. If you wish to repaint the windmill, you can do it either before it is back together or after it's assembled. Windmills were mostly painted red, John Deere green, Ford blue or black.
7. Now you need to rework your tower, or build a new wooden one. A typical steel tower will have some bent angles. Replace them if you can, otherwise you will have to straighten them. One way to do this is to take the angle to a bending tree. This is a solid tree with a fork about waist high. Put the angle in the fork and bend it straight as best you can. If it twists take it to your vise and twist it back. Do this several times and you can straighten most bent angles, even backward bends.
8. If your platform is gone, you will need a new one. Use 2"x12"x4' treated lumber. Put the platform on three sides of the tower, leaving the ladder side open. This is so you do not have to climb over the platform to service your windmill. Move your tower to where you're going to install the windmill before putting the head back on.
9. Once the tower is where you want it, add the mill head, tail, spring and blades. Depending on your type of windmill, you may have to add the furling mechanism or other external parts to turn your windmill on and off.
10. Now you will need to stand the windmill up, and there is a vast array of methods to do that. I mostly use a sign company as they are mobile, have a good reach and are relatively inexpensive. You can tip them, so my advice would be to use two trucks, gin pole or build up from the ground. This mostly depends on your budget and the availability of equipment. Just do it safely.

Hopefully this article will encourage you to finally go finish that old windmill that has been out behind the barn for a few years. There are a very large number and many different types of windmills, and fixing one can be a daunting task. Try to find as much information as you can about your mill, and then be methodical in the restoration. Once restored, they are great pieces of history to own. Contact me if I can help (Chuck Rickgauer at www.thewindmillfarm.com).