Insulation
Tips
from the October 2005 issue
 First
a little background: The home, all 1,200 sq. ft.,
on my first acreage was old, really old. When I took
possession, it was late spring and heating was not
an issue. To the north of the house I had plenty of
cover from a large stand of trees but other than that,
it was pretty much prairie. Then came November. I
heated the house like most of us do, with propane.
My first month I burned 300 gallons of the stuff and
at $.89 (yes that was “back in the day”)
my bill, by the time I got to Thanksgiving Day, was
$267.00! By Christmas Eve I had already burned another
400 gallons and I was considering selling off a horse
or two just to pay for heating. It was NOT looking
good and I had to come up with a solution fast.
Necessity
IS a Motivator
The
two items that saved me from financial ruin that first
winter were insulation and an old wood stove I found
in the barn. Christmas Day I hooked up the stove and
spent most of the afternoon fixing insulation issues
all over the place. Final result: From that day until
April 1, I burned only 500 gallons of propane…
So, why the long story? Hey, I remember watching and
listening to the conservation ads imploring me to
check insulation, wrap the water heater, caulk suspect
areas, etc. But, like most, I ignored them. This year…you
can’t afford not to make an energy check of your
home.
Pick
a Starting Place – Up Top
Just
like any project that may seem too overwhelming, start
by picking an issue and get started. Let’s say
you’re want to begin outside the house and your
going to caulk cracks. If you have a two story home
start high and work down. While some folks might suggest
power washing the siding and windows, we’d recommend
taking a broom to the areas you’re going to repair.
It goes more quickly and you don’t have to worry
about the area drying out before you begin caulking
or applying an insulating foam. The most important
step here is to examine each area for not only the
caulk but also possible replacement of boards and
window glaze.
Doors
and Windows Fix Them!
 You
can lose a bunch of heat even through a closed door
and window when it’s minus 10 degrees with a
20 mile-per-hour wind. I’ve seen those matches
“blow out” because of the wind. Weather
striping can be a real money saver. Now, while it
still is nice clean around your doors and windows,
apply felt, nail up strips, adhesive backed foam,
rolled foam, etc. Whatever you do today will help
with tomorrow’s bills. Just make sure the doors
and windows shut tight. You might also have to replace
some wood and/or the threshold, but the key here is
to get started soon. The windows? Your first consideration
should be to make sure they fit tight and then form
an air barrier. There are some great products out
there and they have come along way since the “milky”
plastic film days of window coverings. Check both
the inside and outside of the windows to make sure
there are no escape holes.
Take
a Trip to the Attic
Yes,
we know…often the attic isn’t a place you
want to hang out but that is where you can lose a
bunch of heat. Depending on where you live your attic
should be insulated to the zone’s “R”
value. So, what is an “R” Value? This is
how well an insulation product resists the flow of
heat or cold through the product. “R” value
is determined by a laboratory test in which an insulation
material is sandwiched between a cool and warm surface.
The ability of the material to resist temperature
changes results in an R-value for that material. A
common measurement is 8 - 15 inches of insulation.
What you’re looking for are depressions in the
insulation, places where you need to add or replace
product. Also, check around the parameter of the attic.
You might find places that were missed on the original
installation.
What
about product? Attic insulation comes in a variety
of forms and everybody will tell you theirs is the
best. If you are not replacing an entire attic of
rolled insulation it is much easier to push several
bags of loose product upstairs and spread it where
it is needed. For expert advice we’d suggest
you consult with a builder or one of several building
supply centers near your acreage.
Finally,
check the attic vents and make sure they are functioning.
It sounds goofy but a tight attic is not a good thing
and ventilation is important.
Sneaky
Spots
You’re
done…right? Nope there are plenty more spots
to check. Here is a quick list:
Electrical
Outlets and Wall Switches: No kidding. When the wind
is howling put your hand next to one. There is usually
NO insulation blocking around wires in older houses.
There are products on the market made especially for
blocking air flow in these areas. Get some and see
the difference.
Storm
Windows: This might seem logical that every window
in the house has the storm window down and latched.
But, you would be surprised at the number of windows
you might find that are open just a crack. If the
storm window is loose in the track a quick fix can
be made with a little duct tape cut to size. Sure
it’s cheap…but effective.
Fireplaces:
While a fireplace can be a nice decorative addition
to your home, tons of warm air can rush up your chimney
and turn your fireplace into a money pit. Remember
to first close the flue and then, if you are really
serious of cutting down the draft, consider blocking
the chimney with an easy to remove packing. I’ve
seen folks cut some heavy cardboard to size, place
a handle on one side and insulation on the other and
wedge it at the chimney opening. Once the doors to
the fireplace are closed you can’t see it. Just
remember if you should use the fireplace to remove
the blocking!
Unused
Rooms: Our first acreage had a bedroom (the only room
upstairs) on the second floor that was used only when
“company came”. Closing that and the stairway
off on the main level saved plenty. There was at least
a 30 degree temperature difference between the main
level and upstairs. Besides, why heat an area that
is rarely used?
Finally
Check
your basement. If you have cracks or loose joints
now is the time to patch them up. If you have a “cellar
door” make sure you’ve got that weatherproofed
as well. And remember to check pipes, wrap and heat
them if necessary. The same goes with the well-house
or well pit. Tacking some insulation to the roof helps
keep pumps and lines working properly.
A
little effort now may well help save you hundreds
of dollars over the course of the winter. Stay warm…
To
find out more about your energy issues particular
to your zip code go to: www.ornl.gov/~roofs/Zip/ZipHome.html
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