Gazebo Kits

Looking for a way to enhance your Acreage? Consider installing a Gazebo. With all of the different styles and options available, any yard is a perfect location for a Gazebo. Whether you want one open and airy – next to a water feature, screened so you can enjoy the evenings without getting chased into the house by mosquitoes or 3 season with windows and door for Spring, Summer and Fall enjoyment. The choices are endless.

• Materials: Pre-Cut 12’ Hexagon Gazebo Kit
• Tools and other materials not included in the kit:
  
  • 2-1/2” screws, 3” screws
  • 2” splitless nails
  • Screw Gun
  • Soffit Stapler and Staples
  • Level and Framing Square
  • Circular Saw
  • Miter Box Saw
  • Ladders
  • Patio Blocks
  • Ice & Water Roofing Material
  • 16” Screw Down Anchors
  • Cable & U Clamps – 3-1”x4”, approx. 8’ long

1. The first step is to put together the frame for the deck floor. Screw together the outside edge of the frame which is made of 2” x 6” cedar.
2. Attach the six inside treated joists at each corners of the rim. Tip: Have someone help you life the joists up in the center of the base, slide the core block in and then pound into place.
3. Drill pilot holes and screw the core block into treated corner joists.
4. Next the shorter joists have to be screwed into place.
5. With the base of the Gazebo constructed, it’s time to level it with patio blocks as you go along, starting at the highest point. Put one block under each corner, plus one in the center. Add patio blocks as needed for leveling.  Note: The patio blocks should be hidden under the joists. If the base is not level, the decking and wall sections may not fit properly.
6. Once the base is level and squared, be sure to bolt it down with 3 – 16” screw anchors. Place one by every other corner joist.
7. Make a cut in the joist for the anchor cable to fit flush with joist.
8. Wrap the cable around the anchors and the Gazebo frame and use a U clamp to tighten.
9. If you have ordered a Screen Kit for your Gazebo, there will be screen for under the deck boards. Lay down fiberglass screening over the base and staple it down. This will keep insects out.
10. When laying the deck boards start with the longest boards and work your way in. Line up the “outermost” row and screw the corners together.
11. Walk around the frame to make sure the deck boards overhang the rim joists by the same amount all the way around.
12. Secure the deck boards to the frame by using 2 ½” square-drive screw.
13. Lay down the next circle of boards, lining them up by fitting the angles together. After they’re all down you can pre-drill the holes and fasten them with screws.
14. Continue this process with each circle of deck boards. Line them up in the corners and drill and screw them down one circle at a time.
15. The final step is placement of the center deck block, pre-drill and screw down.

1. Attach the 1”x4” bottom brace (toe kick) into the dado with four screws.
2. Mark where the spindles will attach to the fillet. Note: The kit will come with spacers that show you where to make the marks. It saves time to make the mark with the spacer, then transfer the markings to all fillets using a framing square.
3. Attach the spindles using two ¼” crown staples and an air gun.
4. Attach the second fillet to the other end of the spindles.
5. Stand it up and put the spindle section onto the 2”x4” railing base, line it up and staple it down.
6. Flip the stapled spindle over and staple the rail cap to the other fillet.
7. Assemble the upper baluster sections using the same spacer. You will need to use a finish nail gun due to the thickness of the cedar.
8. Attach the corner posts to the end of the pre-made railing section (previous step) with screws. Be sure to put two screws through corner posts into the bottom rail and two screws into the top rail. Do this to each railing section.
9. Once all the wall sections are assembled, it’s time to raise the walls. Stand two walls up and attach them to each other with five screws in each corner post top to bottom, from each side. Continue attaching the rest of the wall sections.
10. Walk around the perimeter to make sure the walls are ½” in from the edge of the outside edge of the decking.
11. Now screw the corner posts into the deck boards. Pre drilling the screw holes. Drill at an angle to the deck and use 3” deck screws. Start with the corner posts that are near the 36” door opening. If you have a screen door or 3 Season door, measuring your door opening is very important to make sure the door fits. Note: Corner posts should line up where the deck boards meet.
12. Attach the rest of the corner posts to the deck boards.
13. Next, the headers need to be installed on the notches on the top corner posts. Take two header boards, screw them together at the corners, you will do this three times. This will save you time during the installation.
14. Life the header up and set it on a corner-post notch, and then screw the header into the corner posts, two screws into each 2”x4” post (4 per corner).

1. Screw one rafter onto the core block and then another one on the opposite side. Once you have two opposite rafters attached, raise the core block with rafters above walls using a ladder. (You will need 2 people when installing the first rafters.)
2. Fit the pre-cut bird’s mouth at the end of the rafter on top of the header at the corner and screw down. Put the other corner rafters up one at a time by first attaching to the core block and then to the header board.
3. After the corner rafters are up, it’s time to attach the six middle rafters. Pre-mark the center of the header boards so all you’ll have to do is align the rafters and attach.
4. The corner and middle rafters are up, so it’s time to install the 12 short rafters – two per corner rafter. They are pre-cut with the correct angle and have a bird’s mouth to fit on the header.
5. Once all the rafters are in place, you’ll need to square up the Gazebo walls using 1”x4”x8’ boards to make a cross brace in the wall. From the outside, attach the brace board to the upper corner post of the Gazebo wall, plumb the wall and then attach the bottom of the brace board to the opposite corner post. Attach a brace to every other wall. (These will be taken off after the Gazebo is complete.)
6. The kit comes with six 1”x4” fascia boards that will meet the ends of the rafters all around the Gazebo. They come a bit long so that you can trim them to the exact length needed. Hold the fascia boards in place – mark board, match the angle on the miter saw and cut each board to necessary length.
7. The pre-cut tongue & groove ceiling boards are next. Place the longest board and center it in the middle of corner rafters. It should also be flush with the outside edge of the fascia board. Stapling to rafters as you go. Work your way up, assembling one ceiling pie wedge at a time.
8. The second pie should line up on the center rafter next to the first. Work your way around the Gazebo, trim if needed.
9. Lay a barrier of Ice & Water roofing material down on top of finished tongue & groove ceiling before shingling. This will protect your ceiling from melting snow or rain.

1. Again, shingle one pie wedge at a time, starting at the bottom. Double up the shingles on the first row. Use ¼” crown galvanized staples that are 1” long. For the first pie, you can let the shingles run wild – or hang over – the corner rafters.
2. Make a chalk line from the peak down the center of the rafter to the bottom, using a circular saw to cut off the over hang shingles. Tip: Be sure to set the blade on the saw shallow enough to cut only the shingle, not into the rafters.
3. Now it’s time to start the second pie, which means you’re going to need corner pieces of shingles to fit along the edge. To do this, take one of the widest shingles, put it flush against the fascia, mark the corner where it hits the rafters and this will be the angle you need to cut. Timesaver Tip: Make 15 piles of four shingles each, lay your cut shingle on top of a pile, mark it and then use a circular saw to cut through all four shingles at a time. These are called starter shingles.
4. Start the second pie with the cut (starter) shingles and work left to right. The right side shingles can run wild again. Once each pie is done, cut over hanging shingles as described above.
5. Then cover the seams between each section of pie with ridge caps. Use double-ridge caps on the first row. Cover one seam at a time from bottom to top. Continue doing this all the way around the Gazebo.

1. Butt the baluster up against the header and attach it with three screws at the top and two at the bottom.
2. Attach the corner brackets with a staple gun. Pre-drill four holes in each one and screw them into place.
3. Pre-drill holes and screw in the 1” x 4” toe kick board using four screws in each to attach to the deck.
4. Now you can take out the braces that were holding the Gazebo in place.
5. If you had a screen kit…you would attach it now and install the door.